weaving burn test Cendrillon Cotton collecting policy knitted garments Bibliography gown sleeve dress leather stripes documentation shoes Rayon display case fibers Silk indigenous peoples Accessories sewing techniques Marking military uniforms dictatorship Bodily Memory personal identity velvet 1962 contents accession number false weave Don Quichotte uniform 20th century Belgium group identity Ethics Leather opera deterioriation Polyester festivals blanket stitch health safety transporting clothes silk tunic Nutcracker diversity of backgrounds folk culture stored media conservation protection arsenic reused clothes knickers accessories Underwear