cross stitch lining Hmong Ramie transportation undergarments José Miguel Carrera Ponchos future considerations wool legend self couching mercury Pattern-taking Moulins data record SPECTRUM Fleecemaking reconstruction photographs display case lace Titian interview guidelines contagious residue folk culture stitches conservation Padding policy Ribbons skirt tatting lace mauvine chain stitch reused clothes Jute emotions dictatorship collection silk collar Heavily altered items vacuum pest management wearer braiding technique cotton floral ornaments Costume idioms collective identity textile techniques health safety Nylon pattern-taking children packing empress Lace