indigenous peoples identifying stitches giraffe purse interview paper labeling collecting policy 20th century Shaggy Bear reconstruction museums damage Chinese traditional Costume Mantas knickers Theater Queen Elizabeth II fashionable dress collection St Gallen boxes lace labels Pattern-taking embroidery construction Social dictatorship Ramie Publications transportation knitted garments bar code photographs fiber dust refugees identifying fabrics Manneken-Pis Royal Museum of Mariemont burn test clothes Huipil wool Kensington Palace color symbolism knit heavy and awkward handling lead storage collar dress forming Casse Noisette pants ombré roll stitch Patterns exhibition 19th century textile fibers