selection criteria material textile fibers protection from evil fabrics transportation 20th century Ethics darning stitch collecting costume empress cotton dust Queen Mary of Hungary identifying fibers symbolism purse burn test transport exhibition space bride lace midget archival materials lining Sculptors Roméo et Juliette ICOM Guidelines sleeve weaving contagious residue protest dress Viscose marriage Hmong cross reference Tizian wool lead Bibliography collective identity crewel stitch Preparing the public ribbon weave Quick Response reconstruction Munich insurance Heavily altered items warp Chinese traditional Costume legend Wool addresses portrait museum Jute Social