miser's purse 19th century linen label festivals Nylon collective identity public SPECTRUM Lady in White darning stitch materials boxes photography Princess Margaret stem stitch 1950s Theater costume labels sleeve Silk elasticity tradition exhibition policies Belgium fabrics textile fibers Bodily Memory embroidery Reconstruction museums crucifix museum story copy dress transportation warp future considerations professional dress accession stripes Patterns 20th century mannequins Feathers Mantas symbolism dwarf Titian shoes allergens Ponchos indigenous peoples Terminology Lace Flax storage area locally made clothes