Balmaceda Coolmax Mette Bagge Kiær Theater indigenous peoples dress gown Pattern collecting policy exhibition wedding dress chain-link mesh cross reference machinery Heavily altered items giraffe textile fibers needle lace group identity narrative fashionable dress locally made clothes embroidery lining inspiration wool Pattern-taking pesticide collective identity collar uniform Cotton display case Busts and mannequins Thailand museums St Gall ICOM accession number fibers mechanical aids 19th century dictatorship apron Weaving materials Leather Gallen silk Paco Rabanne blanket stitch Costume idioms dwarf knickers cutwork and needlework French knot Munich Guatemala transportation heavy metals