silk display lace paper 19th century Alto Peru manufacture Costume idioms Leaves to Beads Patterns Queen Mary of Hungary necklace accession number indigenous peoples documentation exhibition diversity of backgrounds Cendrillon cotton print dress stitches arsenic masks stitch personal attitudes Feathers insurance Bibliography gown garment interlinking Brazilian customs crewel stitch Ramie Belgium self couching weaving transportation collecting costume cross reference ombré roll stitch danger mannequin La Belle au bois dormant Rayon lead knitted lace Casse Noisette policy donor collection mauvine personal identity future considerations split stitch warp giraffe Ponchos fatal garter cotton