masculine culture filet lace gown policy Alto Peru Raymonda Le Lac des cygnes white cotton lace 18th century personal memories Princess Margaret protection bobbin lace Planning storage care warp padding Mother Sally Identification Mette Bagge Kiær symbolism protest dress dress labeling self couching fibers chain stitch contamination stripes identifying fibers Coolmax buttonhole stitch interview labels Photographs mannequin 20th century heavy and awkward handling handling Raschel Prince Frederik Padding Patterns Underwear Theater costume Publications prints paper weaving Code of Ethics for Museums contagious residue silk lining Huipil photography Collections Trust UK Jute fabric