garment customs needle lace Royal Collections linen Underwear weaving elasticity velvet split stitch chain-link mesh 19th century Queen Mary of Hungary Zuzu braiding technique fibers stored Barbados holes archival materials Pintrest shoes reused clothes stripes warp protection from evil traditional costume Ponchos 18th century 20th century idioms Padding Huipil Nutcracker Patterns museums buttonhole stitch Guatemala Costume idioms collective identity textile techniques popular culture stem stitch Goretex color symbolism Pattern-taking story exhibition space Ethics Stories collection collecting policy donor space Acid-free Bodily Memory jacket French knot dress indigenous peoples