darning stitch Mapuche lace leavers La Belle au bois dormant bobbin lace group identity knit date Taoist jacket guidelines shoes Viscose stem stitch lining narrative risk Kensington Palace warp Facebook vacuum stripes ombré roll stitch checklist documentation contamination fiber dust 20th century crochet lace Royal Collections protest dress elasticity reconstruction 19th century pattern wedding dress indigenous peoples textile technique Heavily altered items Wool lead Moulins data record fibers masculine culture pattern-taking Pattern uniform photographs exhibition storage collective identity Useful future considerations Royal Danish Collections diversity of backgrounds conservation crochet long and short stitch St Gallen