mechanical aids labels Brazilian Huipil storage SPECTRUM copy reused clothes transportation dress weaving Qing Dynasty pattern Prince Frederik's coat 20th century darning stitch ombré roll stitch leavers alpaca hair Princess Margaret Royal Museum of Mariemont documentation story Canadian theatre Titian Collections Trust UK database ICOM cutwork and needlework leather Swan Lake Weaving split stitch Museo Histórico Nacional Rosenborg Castle Theater costume Bibliography lace protest dress white cotton burn test silk contents Viscose Munich Mantas pants collecting policy Costume idioms Theater accession apron floral ornaments chemical lace shuttle cotton refugees Shaggy Bear tradition